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Has anyone yet discovered the Japanese/Asian 3-Ring Mini-Binders?
ReplyDeleteThese binders are designed for 60mm x 80mm paper size, so they are between Filofax Mini (67x105) and Filofax Miniature (44x65) format.
Most (or all?) are offered with rather large 20mm rings. It looks like one of the uses is to use clear pockets for small trading cards.
The hole spacing seems odd at first glance. It is advertised as 28mm, with a distribution of 12+28+28+12mm along the 80mm edge. However, I am convinced that it is three times the Japanese JIS hole spacing of 9.5mm, i.e. 28.5mm. Measurements on different binders confirm that the outer rings are 57mm apart, not 56mm. Therefore, you can punch the paper with any 9.5mm pitch JIS hole punch. A sequence of at least seven punch holes is required, then there are two "dummy" holes between the rings. You still have to punch two times with one of these 6-Punch mini hole punches.
Hans
Hi Hans
ReplyDeleteI haven’t come across these before. Are there any particular brands you are looking at, I’ve seen some plastic Korean ones having searched this afternoon but apart from that I’m not sure if I’m in the right area.
I’ve tried a couple of new sizes this year. I bought a mulberry social organiser on eBay as I like the idea of having a mini reporter in my handbag. I use it to jot down things On the move that want to look up when I get home. I cut some paper to size and put three standard spaced holes in it and that works a treat.
I also bought a VDS touch me in A6 wide and hoped to use B6 inserts as a move away from A5. I found printing the inserts to be problematic, my printer isnt good enough to cope and I couldn’t find anywhere that sold preprinted ones. So over the summer I engaged in a very frustrating exercise of trying to print inserts whilst my printer wanted to chew up paper sized anything other than A5 or A4. That combined with my inability to punch in the centre AND not go off the edge of the page at the bottom led to a fair amount of insert rage. The joints in my hands often hurt which doesn’t help but I find punching my own stuff a challenge in itself.
I’ve got my A5 set up for next year now, (ie admitted defeat) maybe next year I will have regrouped and have enough energy to try a different size again!
How do you set yourself up with the dividers and inserts for different, non- standard size binders?
I was mainly curious whether somebody would already be using this format.
DeleteActually, I discovered the format when looking for the Filofax Miniature. There's a RayMay x Nagasawa special edition made from genuine leather in four color variants available. Excellent quality, but a bit overdone for a small ring binder.
The name indicates that the format is used by RayMay, but all I found was a plastic one with edge protector sewed around the edge. In the meatime I ordered some plain plastic ones through Amazon. Maybe I try my idea of using decor Vinyl on one of these ane makt it fake Lizard or fake Snakeskin. I just have to find the Vinyls in the basement. And then maybe try to sew on an edge protector, but right now I'd have no clue where to get that, or how to handle that one a regular household sewing machine.
When searching for the RayMay binder at Amazon Japan, I doscovered Rhodia 3-ring PU leather binders that seem to have the Filofax M2 or Mulberry Mini format, but intended for portrait orientation with the rings at the top. These would be the perfect reporter style notebooks. The order with the RayMay 3-ring and the Rhodia should arrive in a few days.
For a slim reporter style notebook you could look for the Wellspring Flip Notes that come as spring loaded tin box where the pen locks the box. However, no rings, just a stack of paper.
For printing custom size inserts, I always used A4 paper with printed cut marks, an then cut the sheets on a roller cutter. After having cut two adjacent edges based on the cut marks, I use magnetic strips on the cutter board as stopper to cut all opposite edges at the very same distance.
In the same way I would custom cut and punch inserts. But I am more of a collector of equipment than user, so I have more tools than I could ever use.
Hans
The RayMays look lovely! Thanks for the other tips too, I think I need to buy a proper cutter and retire my scissors. My cuts are pretty decent but not professional looking.
DeleteI use the same Rhodia 3 ring 6.5 x 9 cm leaves in my Plotter 3 ring binder. It’s a nice format and suitable for landscape or portrait use.
DeleteThanks for the annotations, these lead me to your 3-ring guest post. The side-by-side comparison with the Filofax M2 is impressive.
DeleteI once tried how much the paper size could be increased with an M2:
https://www.hjreggel.net/office/Filofax-M2-80mm.jpg
Hans
Those cut-out inner corners you’d done are a nice touch!
DeleteActually, the cutouts are to leave access to the buttons, even when flipped open. But you're right, it's not at all disturbing.
DeleteA recent ebay purchase yielded a 2004 NIB Pocket Identity, a 1998 Personal Kingston, a 2CLF Argyll, and a 4CLF Winchester, for less than the usual going rate for a Winchester.
ReplyDeleteThe Kingston is pretty meh, with poor quality stitching (one of the last 'Made in England'...).
The Identity is ... and Identity, so nothing special.
The Argyll is lovely, supple leather, with no signs of wear, or obvious cracking on the spine, and came with interesting contents. Produced between 1988 & 1990, there is no stamped manufacturing code, but a simple embossed F on the spine (not the later 'roundel' embossing, where an unembossed F is surrounded by an embossed oval).
The Winchester is in good condition, with very little wear. But it is very stiff (unclasped, it barely moves...), and there is evidence of cracking along the spine, so it looks like it has always been stiff. No spine embossing, which must be a clue to its date. I have cleaned it, and tried conditioning with Lord Sheraton balsam, but so far, it resists softening. Currently researching leather softening methods; neatsfoot oil is both recommended and deprecated, depending on what you read...